Day 12 - Final post, no mileage

Prague.
After a wonderful night's sleep in the Downtown Hostel , we sampled the breakfast and are now nearly ready to check out.
Derek has a full days sightseeing planned which includes the underground to The Centre of Modern and Contemporary Art, then hopefully tram back to Charles Bridge. The afternoon starts with a walk round the Jewish Centre before picking up bikes for our final cultural highlights, Wenceslas Square and Central Station. Hopefully Derek will be cultured out by then as we catch the night train back to Frankfurt. Derek then makes his way back to sunny Cumbria whilst I stay and visit Ikea in Frankfurt. A fitting cultural finale which Derek will miss out on.

Facts and figures
Total mileage - 660 miles (1056km)
Expenses for camping and cycling days - 616 euros ( an average of  roughly 30 euros each per day)
Only a couple of hours rain on the whole trip.
Highlights.
Derek - three separate sightings of  pairs of cranes.
John - Tangermunde, a beautiful fortified town with storks on roof tops.

Day 11 - 42.5 miles (66.6km)

Melnic to Prague
Woke up early to a cloudless sky. A cold night though so tents soaked with condensation and dew. Packed our tents away for the last time this trip as we are both looking forward to a bed in the Downtown Hotel in the centre of Prague.
Set off at 8am exactly, bought breakfast at the local supermarket and decided to get down to the river before eating. Melnik wasn't the easiest place to navigate when we arrived yesterday and this morning proved just as troublesome. Eventually got down to the river but could find no route signs. Did this deter us? No way - just looked at the map and took alternative route to try meet up with proper route 3km down the road. Stopped at Euro Velo route 7 board 'The Sun Route' (North Cape to Malta) and had breakfast at exactly -
50°19'12.988"N  14°26'59.170"E
Unfortunately the above sign was the last cycle route sign we saw for the next 35 miles. We assume they must have built a new one but we managed  to avoid it for the rest of the journey. We faithfully followed the route as depicted in our book. Unfortunately all signage as well as most tarmac had been removed. We doggedly overcame all obstacles including - the five flights of open metal steps to cross the river via an oil pipeline (we actually decided to cross at the next ferry), the non-existant next ferry, the dead end road with scramble up bank to dual carriageway, narrowly avoiding joining the motorway, too many to mention rough tracks, cobbles that had been dumped and laid by JCB, 4km steep hill until we finally sighted Prague. After some initial confusion we found a decent cycle path that led us into the heart of the old city and to our accommodation for the night.
Despite utter exhaustion we showered and shot out to engage with more cultural highlights. The
Church of Our Lady of Tyn, the Alfonse Mucha exhibition, the Old Town Hall with the astronomical clock. Then by underground to Malostranska where we visited the Old Royal Palace and St Vitus Cathedral. We finished with a fabulous view over the city before sampling typical Prague goulash and dumplings washed down with local ale. If we wake up tomorrow Derek has many more delights lined up.

Day 10 - 61.4 miles (96.7km)

Nebocady to Melnik
Woke up to no rain for the tenth consecutive morning! That must be a record. On the road by 8 but neither body or mind seemed willing to rotate pedals. Lots of groaning and face pulling.
Since we have been in the Czech republic the river is no longer the Elbe but is now the Labe. Beautiful river valley for the first couple of hours but then widened into open plain towards Litomerice.
On entering Litomerice we had a sharp word from a stern Czech policeman. This was understandable as we were cycling the wrong way up a one way street straight towards his patrol car.
Lunch in the beautiful town square revived spirits. Little did we know what lay ahead.
The cycle path from Litomerice varied from pristine to ploughed field. Derek was less that chuffed to find himself bouncing through a pea crop. He is this very moment penning a letter to the Czech PM asking how recently he has personally cycled this particular stretch of the Elbe Radweg and whether he still has to sit on a soft cushion.
Immediately after this awful stretch I attempted to lighten the mood by asking what our next adventure could be. Dereks reply was far from positive but I nearly saw him smile when I suggested doing the Danube downstream by pedalo.
Our destination of Melnik eventually appeared ahead. This lovely town is situated high up on a hill above the river. After circumnavigating the town in search of the campsite we eventually had to cycle up the hill to the tourist information. The lady behind the counter told us in perfect English that we had to cycle back down the hill to the campsite. The added bonus however wasof seeing the lovely old town market square and from the castle observation post a remarkable view of the junction of the largest Czech rivers the Labe and the Vlatava. It is the Vlatava that we will follow into Prague tomorrow. Those who have been doing their sums will have realised that there has been method in our madness of cycling such huge distances over the previous two days. We now only have 60km to go which will give us the opportunity of a day and a halfs sightseeing in Prague.
Our present campsite is beautifully laid out and offers beer food and internet access at our tent. We love the Czech Republic.

Day 9 - 80.01 miles (126km)

Gohlis to Nebocady (5km S of Decin)
The intermittent showers through the night kept us both awake but fortunately it was dryish for packing away. Decided not to risk showers in the portacabin with the school group so were on the road by 7.35.
Full waterproofs were needed for the first time on this trip on the way on to Meissen where we stopped for breakfast.
First Cultural highlight - Late Gothic Rathaus in Meissen but the red bakery van in front of the Rathaus did more to lift the spirits.
A further 25 km brought us into the centre of Dresden. In 40 minutes we managed to see six of the star attractions in Dresden.
Second Cultural highlight(s) - The Zwinger, Furstenzug, Sachische Staatsoper, Residenzschloss and the Hofkirche.
A happy Derek was prised away from the sights. Little did he realise a further 72 km were ahead.  The Blaues Wunder Brucke 5km further up the river maintained his humour. From Pirna the narrow gorge of the Elbe became more spectacular as high sandstone cliffs towered above us. This area , the Sachsische Schweiz, was really the most beautiful landscape of our whole journey.
Derek became quieter as we flew past our original stop over, the campsite in Konigstein. However the Czech Republic beckoned and he couldn't stay silent for long.
We hammered on, no longer able to understand any road signs, until we reached our present destination which thankfully provided beer and food. Amazingly  wifi also available so blog is complete. Don't expect the same tomorrow!

Day 8 - 78.1 miles (123km)

Lutherstadt Wittenberg to Gohlis.
After yesterdays rest day we needed to put some mileage in in order to reduce the distance on the last day. Derek was most enthusiastic but by ignoring him and not stopping we managed to cycle the biggest mileage of our holiday.
There was little to report on the day apart from 4 storks on chimney pots. We did however have a good lunch stop in the town of Torgau where we managed, for the first time in four days, to purchase some sandwiches and a very tasty Heidelbeertorte.
Cultural highlight - Torgau Schloss Hartenfels a late Gothic Albrechtspalast and the oriel windows on the Rathaus.
Animal highlight - the mosquitoes which have been sucking out precious red blood cells and have consequently altered the aerodynamics of our bodies.
Our drug regime is well established and consists of a lunch time dose of ibuprofen and paracetamol to relieve Derek's shoulder and the pain in my backside. Evening doses of anti-hystamine to counter-act insect bites have the added bonus of knocking us out for a good night's sleep. We have used a masking agent of alcohol to fool the doping agents.
Our present campsite consists of a rough field with a portacabin and school group. It goes without saying that we are self catering tonight.

Day 7 - 61.2 miles (97km)

Plotzky to Lutherstadt Wittenberg.
Having suffered from a sore bottom for two days, this morning I plucked up courage to tell Derek who informed me that he had been applying nappy cream for the entire journey. I borrowed said cream and my life has improved enormously.
We crossed our our first covered bridge so Anne should be pleased. This was our official rest day which was according to our calculations going to be under 60km. Unfortunately neither of us are that good at maths. To compensate Derek for the extra mileage, we had an ice cream stop mid afternoon. His face was a sight to behold.
The morning was spent meandering through woodland and forest on some quite rough tracks. The villages and small towns we passed were linear with no real centre or square. They seemed empty and poor with no shops or bakeries, as one would have expected of East Germany.
We crossed the Elbe at Aken and finally found a place where Derek could further his knowledge of Wurst. Curry Wurst this time!
We then finally turned due east and had the wind at our backs for the first time this holiday. Did I say holiday? Mmmmm.
We rattled along to Wittenberg taking great delight in watching on coming cyclists struggling as we have done for five days.
We arrived at campsite by 3.30 where yet again my command of the German language soon saw us booked in, issued with keys and allocated a pitch. Cycled into town to absorb the cultural heritage of Cranach and Luther.
Cultural highlight - Cranach and Luther Town.
Wildlife highlight - storks and deer on track.
Having sat in square with beer now off to find food and our day will be complete.

Day 6 - 64 miles (101.5km

Tangermunde to Plotzky
After last night's gourmet feast we went for a walk round the wonderful town of Tangermunde were treated to storks flying into roost on the Alt Rathaus and Gothic Tower. Five of them just perched above our heads.
The morning brought more sun and we were again packed and raring to go by 08.15. The 50 miles to Magdeburg were across nature reserves and farm land. Unfortunately we cycled the whole way into a strenghtening headwind where we barely managed 10mph.
Animal highlight - a pair of cranes, red kites and 13 storks grazing in a corn field.
Our journey was further complicated by three diversions because of flood damage. In one, the whole dyke and road were washed away.
Cultural Highlight - ' The Green Citadel of Magdeburg' which is a Hundertwasser architecture project. Truly amazing, possibly more amazing than the Magdeburg Cathedral which we also visited.
Our final 20 km dash has brought us to a 5 star campsite at Plotzky. Normal routine kicked in - pitched tent, shower, beer and food.

Day 5 - 77.3 miles (122km)

Gartow to Tangermunde.
Woke to light wind and sunshine. A quick breakfast of campsite buns, coffee and hot chocolate set us on our way for what turned out to be a day of four halves.
Firstly we cycled through wonderful nature reserve and had great views of two pairs of cranes as well as swans, storks and herons.
The second half consisted of cycling for miles on good track on top of the dyke with our first real views of the Elbe.
The third half entailed a long foodless section finally culminating, at the 50 mile mark, in Havelburg where  a late lunch was very welcome.
The day ended with a final 25 mile dash to Tangermunde where we set up tents in the grounds of the rowing club.
Cultural highlight - Neustadter Tor and Historisches Rathaus of Tangermunde.
Lammhax and numerous beers have numbed the senses apart from the tenderest bits.

Day 4 - 63.1 miles (99.7km)

Barforde to Gartow

Woken by short, sharp shower at 06.00, then went for another short sharp shower before setting off at 08.00. Heavy grey cloud all day but no rain. Wind initially from SE but thankfully veered W later in the day. Sauntered leisurely along until breakfast at Bleckede. Derek clearly didn't understand what black arrows on the map meant so we encountered many steep hills.
So far we have seen no damage as a result of the spring flooding but hundreds of thousands of used sand bags besides the dykes. Cultural Highlight - Hitzacker's artfully decorated, half timbered buildings.
Hitzacker was our lunch stop but unfortunately we (me) left our our lunch in Bleckede. However we did enjoy the local spezialitat, a huge almond and honey pastry.
30 more miles got us to Gartow and a four star campsite. Derek was tired so after pitching the tents cycled rapidly to the nearest beer garden. Three beers later Derek's outlook on life was vastly improved.
We hope the slow puncture in Derek's back tyre has been fixed by the simple process of changing the inner-tube.
We are thinking of renaming the route 'Glimpses of the Elbe Radweg however we have seen plentiful wildlife. Storks. deer, hares and a group of seven herons.

Day 2 - 65 miles (103km)

Tuesday 6th August
Otterndorf to Guderhandviertel
Sorry folks, seem to have deleted original post along with comments. Will try remember highlights and re-do.
Woke up to sunny day. For 364 days a year the wind in this part of Germany blows from the northwest, unfortunately on 6th August 2013 the wind was strong and from the south. Guess which way we were heading?
We started cycling on the landward side of the Elbe dyke through mainly agricultural land. We made good progress and arrived in Stade for a late lunch.
Cultural Highlight - The old harbour and beautiful surrounding buildings. Allowed Derek to take a picture and view the 13th century church spire from a distance. We intended to camp on the the Island of Luhesand but unfortunately the ferry man refused to take our bikes. We continued for a further 8km to Guderhandfiertel. A bit like camping a la ferme.

Day 3 - 62.5 miles (98km)

Guterhandfiertel to Barfrode (a tiny spot inthe middle of nowhere).

After last night's exploits with Magdeburg football fanatic, pirate beer and Wurst we both slept appallingly.
Another sunny morning with easterly wind. Guess which way we were going? Saw the Elbe once again when we cossed by ferry to Hamburg. Tricky route finding through Hamburg but postman eventually redirected us.
Cultural Highlight - Hafen City - The old port side warehouses converted into flat, shops and restaurants. Very impressive.
Spent the remainder of the time in Hamburg looking for a postman!
Eventually regained Elbe Radweg and there followed a hard afternoon's cycling into the strenghtening wind. Derek seemed more than happy for me to lead.
Ended at present location on the front lawn of farmhouse. No food or beer available so had to resort to dreaded dried chicken curry.

Day 1 continued. 12 miles

Cuxhaven to Otterndorf 

Forget what we said about German trains. Late into Harburg so missed the connection to Cuxhaven. Waited an hour but were provided with free drink courtesy of Deutsche Bahn. Arrived Cuxhaven 16.50.
For 364 days of the year the wind here blows from the west. Not on 5th August! Set off into stiff easterly. 12 miles later arrived at wonderful campsite. Now enjoying liquid refreshment with local fish supper.

Day 1

This, at last, is the real thing. A good night's sleep (despite the 30 degree temperature) after a tour of Frankfurt's beer cellars was most welcome. This morning started at 07.30 with a 3 mile ride to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof for the 08.52 train to Cuxhaven (via Hannover and Hamburg-Harburg). Travelling with bikes by train in Germany has to be experienced to be believed. Dedicated bike storage for 18 bikes! Reserved seats with view of bikes, leg room and train timetables so you can co-ordinate all changes. Derek is in awe.

Derek Arrives

Off to Frankfurt International Airport to pick up the second and final member of the party. Derek was met by his personal chauffeur and was subjected to a rigorous workout including body toning and stomach tensing  before being whisked away for a bike servicing session. His photo shows him before the workout! Tomorrow........

Marching on together

Taking in a bit of culture on the way to Frankfurt was well worth while. The Leeds fan sat next to me was all you could wish for. Head shaven, tattooed, biceps to die for and a very limited vocabulary. Still , the chap on my left was charming and from Kendal so what with a full house, great atmosphere and last minute winner, it was well worth the effort. No Robert or Howard on the photo but I'm sure they were pleased with the result.

The journey begins

Travel arrangements to Cuxhaven for the start of our cycling tour to Prague are finalised. Derek will fly to Frankfurt on Sunday where we meet, collect and load bikes and on Monday catch the train to Cuxhaven.
I meanwhile set off today by car. A stop over at Elland Road to see the mighty Leeds' first match of the season is followed by journey to Dover to catch the midnight ferry. Excitement is mounting!